Pre-loading the shifter

[happycommuter]

Bled my clutch recently but still wasn't getting quick, smooth shifts like I wanted.  But on the way home I remembered what I had forgotten: shifter pre-load.

The shift peg has excess travel.  Going through this wasted space takes time.  Get rid of it with light foot pressure before using the clutch.  Just take up the slack.  Simple.  As a bonus, the pressure allows sliding into the next gear as soon as the clutch will allow it - no squeezing the hand lever all the way in for nothing.

[LOKi]

If you pre-load the shifter you don't even need to pull the clutch. Just let of the gas and it will shift. I slips in smooth too. No clunk or grinding. Like is was designed to do so. OH wait...was it?

[martian]

I'm not familiar with the hydraulic clutch and shifter mechanism on on the 650 but from what you describe it sounds like you have some play in your shifter linkage.  My 450 doesn't have a linkage but my '86 Magna does and just a tiny little bit of slop in the linkage makes shifting a real pain.  Check and see if your 650 has a shifter linkage and if so see if the ball joints have some slop in them.  You would be amazed the difference a nice solid shifter linkage can make!!!!

Martian

[BCinMD]

If you pre-load the shifter you don't even need to pull the clutch. Just let of the gas and it will shift. I slips in smooth too. No clunk or grinding. Like is was designed to do so. OH wait...was it?

I found this out by accident the other day.  I was just riding along, went to downshift from 4th to 3rd...was rolling off and putting a little pressure on the shifter. I was just about to squeeze the clutch and started to press a little harder on the shift lever then 'clunk' - into 3rd she went with not even a hiccup.  Sweet.

[martian]

Just because you can doesn't mean you should.  Don't get me wrong I've done it but it's not a good habit to get into.  The clutch is specifically designed to take that kind of abuse the gears aren't.

[Bumblebee]

Going through this wasted space takes time.

The time it takes to shift without taking out the slack in the shifter is, at best, dribble in the real world. If that amount of time is significant, it's already too late. It'll help aggressive smooth shifting (so will planning in advance) or getting home after a clutch cable breaks however that's about the only advantage.

I slips in smooth too. No clunk or grinding. Like is was designed to do so. OH wait...was it?

No. Not intentionally anyway. Shiftable gears have had clutches (or the equivalent) since just after the very beginning of adjustable gear systems all the way back to some of the earliest water powered tool mills. It tended to break less gear hardware that way by removing the forces involved during the gear selection.

There are always forces going on in the transmission that you likely can't feel such as gear teeth impacting into each other or impulses being transmitted through bearings when it's close but not exactly the right conditions for a shift while under minor amounts of load. Impact forces are cumulative. Preloaded forces against the shifter accumulate damage also. Sometimes it's trivial but trivial + trivial +.... = substantial after a while.

Ask yourself this: Which is less of a hassle, using the clutch and shifting normally then replacing the inexpensive easily accessable clutch occasionally or loading the shifter and not using the clutch then having to split the case to repair damaged gears and chasing down missing broken metal bits?

[Custom82Hawk]

not only that, but when you use the clutch, it allows the gears to sync properly, which unclutched shifting doesn't allow.  basically, as you let the clutch out, it speeds the transmission up to the speed of the engine to allow them to make contact properly.  this can be done by goofing with the throttle, but it's a skill that takes time to learn and, as bumblebee said, replacing gears due to broken teeth from learning how ;)

[gammer]

HappyC, I've been trying your 'pre-load the shifter' idea the last few days and it really, really works 
(you can paypal me the money we talked about, now)

Seriously though, up shifting is smoother for sure...less clunks. And I've had issues when down shifting from 3rd to 2nd...would end up going to Neutral. This seems to have eliminated that.

[Zaxeiler]

Similar to this topic, hopefully not too far off.  My 1983 CB550SC has an extension on the foot pegs (moving them forward) and also on the shifting mechanism.  So, I have some free space between my foot and the shift lever.  Also, once making contact with the lever, there is some free play before shifting occurs.

I'll get around to posting a picture to help you see what I mean, but before then, has anyone made this/similar modification to their NH?  If so, how do you go about making adjustments to the lever's height/free play?  It looks like a set of bolts can be tightened, but I wanted thoughts first...

All the best,
Zac

[happycommuter]

If so, how do you go about making adjustments to the lever's height/free play?

I'm assuming the shifter peg attaches to a turnbuckle.  This adjusts height, not free play (if there were an adjustment for that, this topic wouldn't exist).  Some bikes have the shift lever mounted on a splined shaft, like many rear brake levers, and the lever can be remounted with different spline alignment.

There is probably a way to adjust aftermarket forward controls too, but a picture would be needed and that should be off in the Handlebars, Controls & Instrument Cluster section anyway.

[Zaxeiler]

There is a turnbuckle style bolt/nut setup.  And yes, it seems that adjustment would take out some of the freeplay (by which I mean height in that length that needs to be moved before I even get to shift).

Thanks for the info.  I'll go take a picture soon.

Zac

[GingerKid]

I know a lot of mx racers don't bother using the clutch when they shift, but it also wears the trans a lot faster, even when you let off the throttle.  Shifting without the clutch puts more pressure on the dogs, which causes then to wear and click sooner.

[spiritof86]

I bought an 86 700 SC a year ago and I never could get it to shift right--whatever way I shifted I always got the "if you can't find em grind em" noise.  I don't think the PO ever changed the fluid in the clutch master cylinder cause when I took the slave cylinder apart there was a MASSIVE amount of goo in there. I put a new piston and seal in the slave cylinder thingie and now it shifts like "buttah"!      No more pre-loading tomfoolery necessary.  As always YMMV.