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Author Topic: Pants Has Questions About His CB750  (Read 3141 times)
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n5tbu
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« Reply #50 on: August 26, 2010, 10:33:25 AM »

After 30000 miles,I never even thought about a throttle lock,and I tried out highway pegs for one short ride and pulled them off and gave them to RustyB for shipping charges.
I can sit in one position for 8 or more hours, then sit in front of the computer for a few more! Guess my butt is well trained to be lazy.
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« Reply #51 on: August 26, 2010, 11:43:58 AM »

... AND a back rest. Back rest is probably the most overlooked and most positive comfort thing you can add to a touring bike.

Driver's back rest? Got any pics & specs on that?
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LOKi
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« Reply #52 on: August 26, 2010, 12:17:20 PM »

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Driver's back rest? Got any pics & specs on that?

Yea just add this little box and the strap system for it holds the seat back.  poke


Not exactly helpfull hu?

Thread here
http://nighthawk-forums.com/index.php/topic,4315.0.html
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« Reply #53 on: August 26, 2010, 02:31:01 PM »

Damn, I forgot all about that thread. Saw the beginning and did not notice the rest.

Great job. It is a lot more than I am willing to do.

I think I will just put a Walmart bin on my pillion and glue a pillow, voila, instant backrest!!!

Still like how you made the front of the seat. I find myself sliding down all the time, especially with the beadrider cover.  The 'boys and their leader' protest all the time.  umph
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« Reply #54 on: August 26, 2010, 03:34:56 PM »

When your setting up bags on a bike you might as well take that seat back into consideration. Make sure the seat back is firm. Firm enough to sit on is ideal. If you can stand up and rest your butt on the seat back it will give the majority of your butt time to rest and move some blood around. I did this all the way across TX. Every little town I got to I would stand up and lean against that back rest. By the time I got to Colorado I felt like I had only rode the 2 hours to my parents house. Ready to ride some more.
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« Reply #55 on: August 31, 2010, 10:53:12 AM »

Well - NOBODY in my home town carries the Motel Fully Synthetic Oil the PO used.  So I have to switch.  Wasn't too crazy about the $12.00 per quart ordering it on the net anyway.  I've got some time, the oil in the bike is still fresh.

I've done a lot of reading on the net and I'd say it's split down the middle.  1/2 say I can switch to Dino with no problems.  The other half says I'm going to do everything from pull a muscle to ruin the clutch to blow the thing up - none of which sound appealing.

So, has anyone of you definitively switched from fully synthetic oil to conventional oil and if so, what if any problems have you encountered?
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« Reply #56 on: August 31, 2010, 11:13:22 AM »


Honda makes a semi-synthetic HP4.
The non-moly version is better. (gold bottle) Available @ Honda
Purolator ML16817 filter Available @ Pep Boys


* hp4 semi-synthetic, no moly.jpg (3.46 KB, 108x168 - viewed 150 times.)

* ML16817.JPG (10.83 KB, 300x300 - viewed 140 times.)
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« Reply #57 on: August 31, 2010, 11:22:15 AM »

I use Mobil 1 in my cages.  Have for 20 years.  But I bought them new, and beginning with the 1st oil change, stuck with the same brand, blend, and weight.

I just don't want something wierd happening like a chemical reaction scraping the clutch disk.
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« Reply #58 on: August 31, 2010, 11:36:47 AM »

Buy what I showed you, it's non-moly. Then you can visit your friends at the Honda shop and give them some business. It comes in a gallon too, little less expensive.  gerg

That's what Ghammer uses and we all know he's sharp as a tack.
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« Reply #59 on: August 31, 2010, 11:37:45 AM »

Pants: I think you are worrying too much. If you had bought this bike off the dealer's showroom floor with no background info, what would you do?

I've had Walmart brand 10W-40 oil in my NH for the last 1000 miles with a (gasp) Fram filter. Currently doing an experiment. So far it seems to run better than the Castrol I had.

There is a guy over at the Rebel website with a 1996 Rebel 250, no oil filter, has tried different oils in the 98K miles he has had it since new, and says any oil works fine as long as you change it regularly.
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« Reply #60 on: August 31, 2010, 11:59:00 AM »

any oil works fine as long as you change it regularly.

Here, Here!  beer
That pretty much sums it up right there.
The only exception to the above statement, is that you don't want oil with additives in it in a motorcycle. Use motorcycle oil.

That's what Ghammer uses and we all know he's sharp as a tack.

I used HP4 in my old engine. Still using cheap regular 10w40 in my newer engine. Now that its broken in, I will probably switch to HP4 again next spring.
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« Reply #61 on: August 31, 2010, 12:01:24 PM »

There's two types of HP4, the non-moly is preferred by most.
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« Reply #62 on: August 31, 2010, 12:22:00 PM »

Book says NO MOLLY, I 've used it in the 92 sense I got it. I"m not change'n to the regular Honda 10-40, to much $$$..
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« Reply #63 on: August 31, 2010, 01:07:19 PM »

OK - I'll give the HP4 a shot.  It didn't cost me anything to ask, though.  And everybody knows I'm cheap.
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« Reply #64 on: August 31, 2010, 06:09:12 PM »

HP,
  A shared trait (cheap) with most NHF members...  Maybe "frugal" would be a more acceptable term??? Hap1  It's hard to spend that kind of money for oil.  I've been running the Shell Rotela T and changing it every 1500, but considering moving to Mobile 1 or HP4...  Can't get off top dead center on this subject.  scratcher
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